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GARMENT DRAFTING BY 
SIMPLE RULE METHOD 



GARMENT DRAFTING BY 
SIMPLE RULE METHOD 



A Student's Manual for 
Home and School Garment Cutting, 

BY 

Mrs. Mae Milbourne Gingles, 

Director of Domestic Art Department, Saginaw Manual 
Training School, Saginaw, Michigan. 



SEEMANN & PETERS, 

Printing, Binding, Engraving, Electrotyping, 

Stationers and Office Outfitters, 

Saginaw, Michigan, 



LI&ftftRY of C0M8RESS 
lwo Cooles Received 

AUG 22 t90f 

CooyneM Entry 

CLASsrA Wte./No. 

COPY B. 



Copyright 1907, by 
Mrs. Mae Milbourne (tingles. 



Published July, 1907. 




<o 



PREFACE. 

My aim in publishing this little book is: 

First — to give to the schools a simple and inex- 
pensive method of pattern drafting which embodies 
the educational through the practical medium, and 
which will save time by dispensing with much of 
the note book work. 

Second — to benefit the woman in the home who 
would make her own patterns if she could do so 
without the use of some expensive set system or 
course of instruction. 

After three years of steady use in my work, 
during which time I have made a few slight changes 
in the original draft, and the experience of others 
in both home and school work, I do not hesitate to 
say that properly worked out this manual will meet 
both demands. Should it be helpful to others, 
though in smaller measure than it has proved to 
me in my work, the time spent in its preparation 
will be fully compensated. 

M. M. G. 



-5 O 



CONTENTS. 



Preface v 

Introduction vii 

Underskirt Draft 4 

Gored Skirt Draft 8 

Drawers Draft 16 

Shirtwaist Draft 18 

Shirtwaist Sleeve Draft 25 

Neck-band Draft 28 

Night-gown Draft 29 



1-9$(o°& 



INTRODUCTION. 

The instructions contained in this book are as 
simple and concise as possible, the intention being 
merely to do away with the necessity of dictating 
notes on drafting, necessarily mechanical in them- 
selves, for certain set rules must "be followed in 
making a pattern. 

For class work the whole general plan should 
be carefully developed by the inductive method 
before the student sees a printed line or hears a 
dictation, otherwise an injury is done rather than 
benefit derived, from an educational standpoint. If 
the instructor has each lesson thoroughly in mind, 
she will find it quite possible to draw the whole 
general plan from her class without dictating at all, 
and it is only such teaching the author advises in 
this work, because we know that the inductive 
method is the only true method to follow in the 
schoolroom if best results are to be obtained. 

By the woman in the home, who simply needs 
the patterns from a practical point of view, the 



instructions will be easily understood, and plain 
pattern-making made easy. 

The instructions are all for plain patterns, but 
it is a very simple matter, after a little thought and 
and practice, to develop more elaborate garments 
from the same plain patterns. The additions for 
tucks, plaits, etc., as well as changes in general 
form, and the drawing of free-hand curves are of 
great value in studying correct lines, hence the 
educational through the practical medium. 

The only equipment necessary for making these 
drafts is drafting paper (the yard-wide, light-weight 
quality, about 6 cents per pound, is the best for 
this purpose), a yard rule, 6o-inch tape line, and 
pencil. 

The plan for making the drafts is based entirely 
upon the right angle, made up of two lines of une- 
qual lengths, the long line representing all length 
measures, and the short line the width measures. 
The location of the right angle on the drafting pa- 
per must be carefully observed. A piece of draft- 
ing paper is laid lengthwise on the table, the right 
angle drafted at the right-hand end. The direc- 
tions down, out and tip, constantly used in the in- 
structions, must be kept clearly in mind : 



Dozvn is located toward the right hand or lower 
part of pattern, following the long line, or length. 

Out is located directly away from the person, 
either on or parallel with the short line. 

Up is toward the left hand, or upper part of 
pattern. 



Out: 

A 



Up «- 



•Down. 



A series of numbered dots is used to mark the 
important points of the pattern according to the 
measure taken; these dots are then connected by 
either straight lines or curves. As soon as the stu- 
dent becomes a little familiar with the drafts the 
numbers are omitted, and all connections are made 
without reference to the notes. Within a reasona- 
ble length of time the instructor should insist upon 
drafts being made without any reference to instruc- 
tion book, thus again deriving a two-fold value. 

Add seams to pattern, using the yard rule for 
drafting all straight seam lines. A much more 
accurate seam will be made in this way. Seams 
along curved lines should be dotted. 



The importance of accurate measures cannot be 
too strongly emphasized. A well-fitting pattern 
cannot result from incorrect measures. They 
should be taken very carefully in the first place and 
then verified until there can be no doubt about the 
correctness. If the measures are true to the figure 
the pattern will fit perfectly. 

A few set measures are given in some of the 
drafts. These are correct for the average adult, 
but in drafting patterns for children or unusually 
disproportionate forms, judgment must be exercised 
in the use of these measures. 

Seams should be traced and basted with the 
greatest care. 



LESSONS IN 
GARMENT DRAFTING. 



General Instructions for Skirt Drafting* 

All skirt measures should be taken to the floor, 
then any desired deduction made, or length added. 

After each part of pattern is drafted, test all 
measures with a tape line. 

Carefully mark each part of pattern with the 
name of the gore; also front (or warp) side. 

In cutting out patterns, allow ^-inch seams on 
sides. Cut top and bottom on draft lines. 

One-half the pattern only is cut — one-half front 
gore, one side gore and one back gore. 

There should be no seam down the center of 
front gore, hence the pattern must be placed on 
cloth folded lengthwise of warp, front side of pat- 
tern following fold of goods. 

In placing side and back gore patterns on mate- 
rial, see that front of each pattern follows warp 
thread, or length of cloth. This is very important. 
They may be cut singly or on doubled cloth, which- 
ever cuts to better advantage. 

Width of gores at bottom depends upon height 
and size of person for whom skirt is made; also, 
prevailing style. 



Instructions for Basting. 

To avoid mistakes, leave each part of pattern 
pinned to material until ready to baste. JVever 
notch gores. 

First, pin warp side of side gores to front gore, 
beginning at top. Always baste with bias part up- 
permost, to avoid fulling straight edges. Fasten 
thread firmly at top and baste with small stitches, 
carefully following seam line. 

Follow same instructions for back gore. Leave 
8 or 10 inches open at upper part of center back 
for placket opening. It is well to stay the bias 
back seam, either with double stitching or straight 
strip of cloth, to avaid stretching. 

Underskirt Dratt. 
Measures: 

WAIST: Easy measure around smallest part 

of waist. 
FRONT: From waist line to floor. 
SIDE: Over fullest part of hip to floor. Take 

this measure over both hips, and use the 

longer one. 
BACK: From waist line to floor. 

Widths at Bottom of Gores for 3-yard Skirt: 

FRONT GORE, 12 inches wide. 
SIDE « 19 « 

BACK « 23 " 



FRONT GORE DRAFT. 




-jf Pro u\ -fold o^Cvoo<S<=>. 



a. Use straight edge of paper for long line. Near 

top of paper draw a short line at right angles 
to long line. Measure down from angle on 
long line FRONT length of skirt and place 
dot 1 

b. Up from angle ^-inch, and one-sixth WAIST 

measure out, place dot 2 

c. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 3 

d. Out from 3, 2 inches more than one - sixth 

WAIST measure, place dot 4 

e. Out from 1 mark desired width of front gore 

with small cross. 

f. Connect 4 and cross with straight line, 
g- " 2 and 4 with curved line. 

h- " angle and 2 with curved line, 
i. Measure FRONT length of skirt on line ex- 
tending from 2 to cross, and place dot 5 

j. Connect 1 and 5 with a curved line. 



SIDE GORE DRAFT. 




f Vroxvt Ll^asfel^i4& 



^hq^ o^ Vafr^r 



Beginning at left-hand end of paper, draw a 
right angle same as for front gore, except the long 
line is placed ^-inch from edge to allow for seam. 

a. Down from angle FRONT length, place 

dot i 

b. Out from angle 3^ -inch, place dot 2 

c. Up from angle 24 .inch, and j£ WAIST meas- 

ure out, place dot 3 

d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 

e. Out from 4, 3 inches more than j£ WAIST 

measure, place dot 5 

f. Out from 1 mark desired width of side gore 

with small cross. 

g. Connect 5 and cross with straight line, 
h. " 3 " 5 with curved line. 

i u 2 " n '' " " 

j. " 2 " 4 " " " 

k. Measure SIDE length on line extending from 

3 to cross, and place dot 6 

1. Connect 1 and 6 with curved line. 



BACK GORE DRAFT. 




^ K frout (Uia^frfo, A ^ y) , d ^ 



Draft right angle, same as for side gore. 

a. Down from angle SIDE length, place dot i 

b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 

c. 1 inch up from 2, and % WAIST measure 

out, place dot 3 

d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 

e. Out from 1 mark desired width of back gore 

with small cross. 

f. Connect 3 and cross with straight line. 

g. " 2 " 3 with curved line, 
h. " 2 " 4 " " " 

i. Measure BACK length on the line extending 

from 3 to cross, and place dot 5 

j. Connect 1 and 5 with curved line. 



General Instructions for Gored Skirt Draft* 

The same general principles apply to the gored 
skirt draft as to the underskirt, except that more 
measures must be taken. The WAIST and HIP 
measures are subdivided into as many gores as 
desired, and are known by the names FRONT 
WAIST, FRONT HIP, SIDE WAIST, SIDE 
HIP, etc., meaning the width of each gore at the 
waist or hip, as the case may be. Tables on a fol- 
lowing page give proportionate WAIST subdivi- 
sions for each of the 7 01*9 gores of a skirt, ranging 
from waist measures 18 inches to 36 inches. These 
subdivisions may be easily rearranged to suit chang- 
ing styles; that is, a plait added to either side of a 
front gore may produce an unbecoming width at 
waist line, hence the pattern should be cut nar- 
rower, the deduction added to side gores. 

One-half the pattern only is cut — one-half the 
front gore, one each of the side gores, and one 
back gore. 

Determine the width of each gore at the hif 
line in the following manner: 

FRONT HIP is 1 %; -inch more than FRONT 
WAIST. 

BACK HIP is 1% -inch more than BACK 
WAIST. 



Add FRONT HIP and BACK HIP; deduct 
this from one-half HIP measure; divide this num- 
ber into equal parts and it will give the HIP meas- 
ure for each of the side gores. Do not use any 
fraction smaller than ^-inch. 

A diagram, similar to the following, should be 
made before beginning to draft in order to avoid 
errors: 

Front ist Side 2d Side Back 
WAIST— 24 2442 
HIP- 40 2% 7 7 z% 

Foundation skirt lines are the same, no matter 
what the prevailing style. A shirred, plaited, 
flared or tucked skirt may be developed from a 
plain gored skirt pattern bv marking extra width 
on the cloth before cutting. Use tailor's chalk or 
colored pencil. 



Tabic of Waist Subdivisions for 7-gored Skirt. 



WAIST 


FRONT 


1st SIDE 


2d SIDE 


BACK 


18 


m 


3 


3 


m 


19 


m 


3M 


3M 


W 


20 


2 


3^ 


HM 


IK 


21 


2 


3M 


3)4 


m 


22 


2 


3^ 


3M 


m 


23 


2 


3% 


m 


m 


24 


2 


4 


4 


2 


25 


2 


4M 


4M 


2 


26 


2M 


4M 


4M 


m 


27 


2K 


4^ 


4M 


2> 4 


28 


2M 


4% 


m 


2M 


29 


2M 


4M 


m 


2M 


30 


2M 


4M 


m 


2M 


31 


2M 


5 


5 


2M 


32 


2% 


5M 


5M 


2M 


33 


3 


5K 


b% 


3 


34 


3 


5K 


VA 


3 


35 


3 


5M 


5% 


3 


.36 


3M 


5M 


5% 


3M 



Widths at bottom for 7-gored skirt: 

Front gore 8 inches ^ 

^ 8 d tS !? e I; ;;;vg « »X yard skirt. 

Back " '.".'.'. 23 « j 

Front gore 9 inches ] 

1st side " 18 " [ . , k - t 

2d " " 21 " r 4yarcLsKirt. 

Back " 25 " J 



10 



Tabic of Waist Subdivisions for 9-gored Skirt. 

WAIST FRONT 1st SIDE 2d SIDE 3d SIDE BACK 

18 V/ % 2% 2% %% W% 

19 \y 2 2y 2 2y 2 2% ^A 

20 2 2% 2% 2% n/ 2 



21 2 2% 2% 2% ih 

22 2 2% 2% 2% \% 



23 2 2% 2% 2% 2 

24 2 3 3 3 2 

25 2 3 3 3 2% 

26 2 3^ 334 314 2M 

27 2^ 3^ 3K 3)4 2% 

28 2M 3^ 3^ W% 2^ 

29 2M 3^ 3^ 3^ 2^ 

30 2)4 '6% 3M 3^ 2^ 



31 2% 3% 3% 3^ 21 



32 2% 4 4 4 

33 2^ 4 4 4 2% 

34 2% A.% 4M 4Ji 2% 

35 2% A% 4M 4^ 2% 

36 2^ 4^ 4^ m 2M 

Measures : 

WAIST: Smooth measure around smallest part 
of waist. Take slightly easier measure for 
9-gored pattern than for y-gored. 

HIP : Smooth measure around largest part of 
hips. 

FRONT: From waist line to floor. 

SIDE : From waist line over fullest part of hip 
to floor. Take this measure over both hips 
and use the longer one if there is any dif- 
ference, which is often the case. 

BACK : From waist line to floor. 

11 



FRONT GORE DRAFT. 





£roat Cxort 
-? Ccnfav front - Fol6 o\ Goo6s./| 



C. 
d. 

e. 



a. Use edge of paper for long' line. Near top 

of paper draw a short line at right angles to 
long line. Measure down from angle FR ONT 
length, and place dot r 

b. Up from angle ^-inch, and FRONT WAIST 

out, place dot 2 

Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 3 

Out from 3, FRONT HIP, place dot 4 

Out from 1 mark desired width of front gore 
with small cross. 

f. Connect 4 and cross with a straight line. 

g. " 2 " 4 with a curved line, 
h. " angle and 2 " " " 

i. Measure FRONT length on line extending 
from 2 to cross, and place dot 5 

j. Connect 1 and 5 with a curved line (it is much 
easier to sketch this curve if 1 and 5 are 
first connected by a straight line). 

12 



FIRST SIDE GORE DRAFT. 




•fcA^fl a$~ Fayer. 



a. Draw a long line x / 2 -inch from edge of paper. 

Out, near top of paper, draw a short line at 
right angles to long line. Down from angle 
FRONT length, place dot i 

b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 

c. Up from angle ^-inch, and SIDE WAIST 

out, place dot 3 

d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 

e. Out from 4, SIDE HIP, place dot 5 

f. Out from 1 mark desired width of first side 

gore with small cross. 

g. Connect 5 and cross with straight line, 
h. " 3 " 5 with curved line. 

a 2 " 2 " " " 

j. " 2 " 4 " " " 

k. On the line extending from 3 to cross measure 
SIDE LENGTH, and place dot 6 

1. Connect 1 and 6 with a curved line. 



13 



SECOND SIDE GORE DRAFT. 

Second side gore draft is usually cut same as 
first side gore, except that more width is given at 
the bottom, and both lengths of gore are SIDE 
lengths. 

BACK GORE DRAFT. 




•ELibqa oV Va>pe.r 



a. Draft a right angle same as for side gore 

drafts. Down from angle SIDE length, 
place dot i 

b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 

c. 1 y 2 -inch up from angle and 7 or 8 inches out, 

place dot 3 

(Any width desired may be used here.) 

d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 

e. Out from 1 mark desired width of back gore 

with small cross. 



u 



f. Connect 3 and cross with a straight line. 

g. Draw a line curving slightly uf from 2 and 

down to 3 (this point is cut merely for safety 
in fitting skirt. After plaits are laid to fit 
figure, the cloth should be carefully cut to 
waist line). 

h. Connect 2 and 4 with a curved line. 

i. On the line extending from 3 to cross measure 
BACK length, and place dot 5 

j. Connect 1 and 5 with curved line. 



General Instructions for Drafting Drawers. 

In cutting out pattern, follow outside line while 
paper remains folded. For front of pattern, cut on 
single paper, following the line from i through 5 
to 4. Shorten pattern to any length desired. 

In laying pattern on material, be sure that length 
follows warf thread. 

If the waist line is to be finished with a yoke, 
cut the upper part down the width of the yoke. 

Measures : 

WAIST: Close measure around waist. 

HIP: Close measure around fullest part of hips. 

SIDE LENGTH : From waist line at side to 

bend of knee. 
KNEE: Width desired at knee, usually from 

12 inches to 15 inches. 



DRAWERS DRAFT. 




FoU 0$ Fafr or ■ 



16 



a. Fold i x / 2 yards of drafting paper crosswise, 

using fold for long line. Draw a short 
line at right angles to fold near left of pa- 
per. Dozen on fold from angle, 3 inches, 
place dot 1 

b. Dozvn from 1 , 1 inch more than one-half SIDE 

LENGTH, place dot 2 

c. Down from 1 the whole SIDE LENGTH, 

place dot 3 

d. Out from 2, 2 inches less than one-half HIP 

measure, place dot 4 

e. Out from 1, 3 inches less than one - half 

WAIST measure, place dot 5 

f. Out on short line one-half WAIST measure, 

place dot 6 

g. Out from 3 the KNEE measure, place dot ... 7 
h. Connect 1 and 6 with a straight line-. 

i. " 6 " 4 " " " 

j. " 4 " 7 " curved " 

k. " 3 4 ' 7 " straight " 

1. " 1 '• 5 " curved '■ 

m. " 5 u 4 " straight " 



17 



General Instructions for Shirtwaist Draft. 



DRAFTING. 

One-half the pattern, one-half front and one- 
half back, is drafted to the lines of the figure, and 
all extra fullness must be provided for when cutting 
out waist. 

CUTTING. 

i inch seams should be allowed on pattern on 
shoulder and under arm. Balance of pattern is 
cut on draft lines. The lines down the center of 
front and back represent center of plait and center 
of back, hence no seams are necessary. 

If shirtwaist is to open in front, take off two 
lengths of cloth. Make center plait along one 
straight edge. If it is to be a plaited or tucked 
waist, the plaits or tucks are put in before pattern is 
placed. If more fullness is desired than pattern 
and plaits provide, the cloth may be drawn under 
from back of pattern after it has been pinned along 
front, neck and shoulder, but never change the 
shape at neck curve and shoulder. This will spoil 
the fit of the waist. 

The center plait along the other half of front 
need be only a half-inch hem — just wide enough to 

13 



hold the buttons. Plaits and tucks must be put in 
to correspond with other half of front. 

The back is cut on doubled cloth folded length- 
wise of warp. 

If the waist is to open in the back, two lengths 
are taken off, and same instructions followed as 
outlined above. 

The front is cut on doubled cloth, folded length- 
wise of warp. 

BASTING. 

Baste shoulder seams together, beginning at 
neck, and follow seam line carefully. 

Baste under-arm seams, beginning at arm's eye. 
If the pattern has been carefully drafted the waist 
lines will meet on front and back. 

The i-inch seams on pattern should be cut to 
3^-inch after first fitting. 



Table of Measures for Front of Neck* 

INCHES. 

2% 

2 7 A 
3 

3% 



NECK. 


INCHES. 


NECK 


11 


2 


14 


iiK 


. 2% 


14K 


12 


. 2% 


15 


™% 


2% 


15& 


13 


• 2% 


16 


13K 


• 2% 


16^ 



19 



Table of Measures for Back of Neck. 



NECK. 


INCHES. 


NECK. 


INCHES 


11 


m 


14 


• 2% 


ny 2 . 


m 


14K 


2^ 


12 


i* 


15 


2^ 


12^ 


i# 


«K 


. VA 


13 


2 


16 


%% 


vdH ■ 


2 


16V 2 


• 2% 



Measures : 

NECK: Smooth measure at bottom of collar 
band. 

BUST : Smooth measure around fullest part of 
bust, well down in front and over point of 
shoulder blades in back. Stand behind per- 
son when taking this measure. 

WAIST: Close measure around smallest part 
of waist. 

CHEST: From shoulder to shoulder, i inch 
below collar band. 

SHOULDER: From bottom of collar band to 
point of shoulder. 

UNDER ARM: Close under arm to waist 
line. Do not raise the shoulder when tak- 
ing this measure. 

LENGTH OF FRONT: From collar band 
to waist line. 



20 



LENGTH OF BACK: From collar band to 
waist line. The difference between 
LENGTH of BACK and UNDER-ARM 
measures is usually 7 inches. 

WIDTH OF BACK: Across shoulders, just 
above point of shoulder blades. 



FRONT DRAFT. 




a. Draft a right angle, using straight edge of 

paper for long line. Measure out on short 
line from angle 2 inches, and place dot 1 

b. Out on short line from 1, SHOULDER 

MEASURE, place dot 2 

c. 1 ]/ 2 -inch down from 2 place a small cross. 

d. Connect 1 and cross with straight line. On 

this line measure SHOULDER length, and 
place dot • 3 

^1 



e. Down from angle on long line whatever 

FRONT OF NECK table calls for in 
your size of neck, place dot 4 

f. One-half the distance between angle and 4, 

place dot 5 

g. 15^-inch out from 5, place dot 6 

h. Down from 4 on long-line FRONT LENGTH 

place dot 7 

i. Out from 4 draw a line parallel with short line. 
On this line measure one - half CHEST 

measure, and place dot 8 

j. Down from 4 on long line, 4^ inches, place dot 9 
k. Out from 9 draw a line parallel with short line. 
On this line measure one - half CHEST 

measure, plus ^-inch, and place dot ro 

1. Deduct WIDTH OF BACK from BUST 
measure. Out from 9 one-half this differ- 
ence, place dot 11 

m. Down from 11 UNDER - ARM measure, 

place dot 12 

n. ^-inch out from 12, place dot 13 

o. 5 inches down from 13, place dot 14 

p. 2 " out " 14, " " 15 

q. 5 " down " 7, " " 16 

r. Connect 16 and 15 with a curved line. 

s. " 1$ " 13 " straight " 

t. " 12 u 11 " " " 

u. " 3, 8, 10 and 11 with curved line. 

v. " 1, 6 and 4 " " " 

22 



BACK DRAFT. 




a. Draft a right angle, using straight edge of 

paper for long line. Out from angle on short 
line whatever BACK OF NECK table 
calls for in your size of neck, place dot i 

b. Out from i, SHOULDER measure, place dot 2 

c. 2y 2 inches down from 2, place small cross. 

d. Connect 1 and cross with straight line. On 

this line measure SHOULDER length, and 
place dot 3 . 

e. Down from angle LENGTH of BACK, 

place dot 4 

f. Uf from 4 UNDER-ARM measure, place dot 5 

g. Out from 5 draw a line parallel with short line. 

Out on this line measure one-half WIDTH 

of BACK, plus i^-inch, place dot .6 

h. 1 ^-inch up from 5, place dot 7 

i. Out from 7 draw a line parallel with short line. 
On this line measure one-half WIDTH of 
BACK, and place dot 8 

23 



j. One-fourth WAIST measure out from 4, plus 
1 inch, place small cross. 

k. Connect 6 and cross with straight line. On 
this line measure UNDER-ARM measure, 
and place dot 9 

1. 5 inches down from 9, place dot 10 

m. 2 " out " 10, " " 11 

n. 5 " down " 4, " " 12 

o. Connect 12 and 11 with straight line. 

p. " 9 " 11 " " u 

q. " 3, 8 and 9 with curved line. 

r. Draw a curved line from 1 to J^-inch below 
angle on long line. 



24 



General Instructions for Shirtwaist Sleeve Draft. 

In cutting out pattern, follow outside line while 
paper remains folded. For under part of sleeve, 
cut on single paper, following line from 7 through 
10, 8 and 11 to 4. Allow half-inch seams along 
inside length of sleeve. 

If more fullness is desired than plain shirt sleeve 
provides; lay plait in cloth along center. A smaller 
sleeve may be cut by laying plait along length of 
pattern. 

A short sleeve may be cut from same pattern 
by folding back to any desired length and arrang- 
ing fullness and height of curve at top to suit mate- 
rial and style. 

Measures : 

ARiVt'S EYE: Close measure around arm 
where it joins the body, and over tip of 
shoulder. Usually this measure should not 
exceed 15 inches. 

ELBOW: Close measure around elbow with 
hand on shoulder. The difference between 
ELBOW and ARM'S EYE should be 3 
inches. 

WRIST: Smooth measure around hand, about 
8 inches. 

SHOULDER to ELBOW : From tip of shoul- 
der to elbow. 

25 



ELBOW to HAND: From point of elbow to 
hand. 

INSIDE SEAM: Measure in front where arm 
joins body to hollow of elbow while arm is 
slightly bent. Be sure that this measure is 
long enough. Usually it is 5 inches less 
than SHOULDER to ELBOW measure. 

SLEEVE DRAUGHT. 




a. Double paper, using fold for long line. Draft 

a short line at right angles to long line three 
inches from top of paper. Down from angle 
SHOULDER to ELBOW measure, place 
dot 1 

b. Uf from 1, INSIDE SEAM, place dot 2 

c. Down from 1, ELBOW to HAND, place dot. 3 

d. Out from 2, 4 inches less than ARM'S EYE, 

place dot 4 



26 



e. Out from i, 4 inches less than ELBOW 

measure, place dot 5 

f. Out from 3, 2 inches less than WRIST meas- 

ure, place dot 6 

g. Up from angle, 2 inches, place dot 7 

h. Connect 7 and 4 with a straight line. 

i. One-half the distance between 7 and 4 place 
dot 8 

j. . 2^ inches up from 8 place dot 9 

k. 1 inch up from the line half-way between 7 
and 8, place dot 10 

1. 1 inch down from the line half-way between 8 
and 4, place dot n 

m. Connect 7, 9 and 4 with a curved line. 

n. " 7, 10, 8, 1 1 and 4 with a curved line. 

o. " 4, 5 and 6 with a curved line. 

p. " 3 and 6 with a straight line. 



27 



Neck-band Draft. 
Measure : 

Smooth measure around neck at lower edge of 
collar-band. The pattern should be drafted 
to neck measure, allowance for seams and 
lap to be made on cloth when cutting. 






V 




•J~ 



a. Fold a piece of paper. Draft a long line at 

right angles to fold. Down from angle one- 
half length of neck-band, place dot i 

b. One-half the distance between angle and i, 

place dot 2 

c. ^-inch out from 2, place dot 3 

d. % " " " 1, " " 4 

e. 1 " " " 4, " " 5 

f. 1 " " " 3, 4 ' " 6 

g. 1 " " " angle " " 7 



h. y 2 " up " 5, " " 

i. Connect angle, 3 and 4 with a curved line. 

j. " 7, 6, 8 and 4 " " " 

28 



8 



Night-gown, 

A well-fitting night-gown pattern may be devel- 
oped from shirtwaist by placing the shirtwaist pat- 
tern out from straight edge 5 or 6 inches for full- 
ness, and drafting straight line from under-arm 
point to any desired width at bottom. Measure 
FRONT length on straight edge representing 
center front, and SIDE length on the diagonal line 
under the arm. 

It may be cut either high or low at neck, or 
arranged in yoke form. 

Measures : 

FRONT : From collar-band to floor. 
SIDE: Close under arm to floor. 
BACK: From collar-band to floor. 

Widths at bottom: 

Front gore, about 25 inches. 

Back " " 21 " 



29 



NIGHT-GOWN DRAFT— FRONT. 




\ Center FrouV--Fo\6 o^ Cvoo6s ■ 



kfryi , o^ fft\ag,v. 



The back is placed same as front except a little 
less fullness is required. 



30 



'„)(: 22 190/ 



23 sao 



. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 978 4 I 






